We’ve rated FUGUE as GREAT with three stars * * *
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The area around Gare de l’Est might seem like an unlikely spot for bistronomic discovery, but this restaurant’s name - Fugue - refers to a flight from one's usual environment. In a pared-down stone-walled space that includes counter seating facing his kitchen, chef Hitoshi Minatani is creating stunningly beautiful food at “book now” prices.
Chef Minatani and dining room manager Victor Baraton-Dorat met while working at Semilla and Freddy’s in Saint-Germain. Those two rue de Seine establishments have incredible hospitality and wine, and these traditions are carried on at Fugue. But the real draw is Minatani’s cooking - which manages to be both precise and generous. That’s a rare feat, and one that makes me want to return again very soon.
ON THE MENU
At Fugue, you have the option to order à la carte - with starters ranging from 16-22€ and mains from 28-34€ - or to go for their tasting menu with 5 dishes for 75€. There are also lunch menus available for 25-30€. I opted for the tasting menu at dinner, and here’s what it included:
This terrine - combining pork, foie gras and pigeon - blew me away. The meats melded luxuriously and their richness was balanced beautifully by the bitter endive, tart quince, and pickled mustard seeds (18€).
I also loved these scallops with lobster-coconut-combava bisque, parsnip purée, and pear. The lobster bisque was profound and the earthy spinach leaves cut the sweetness (22€).
But one of my absolute favorites was this dish of sea bass en croûte with celeriac, spinach, and champagne sauce (34€). The sauce had some beautiful tartness to it, and just look at that buttery crust enveloping the spinach-wrapped sea bass. This dish, to me, was heaven.
My meat course was also a stunner. Behold this beautiful filet de boeuf with truffled mashed potatoes and red wine sauce. This dish was only offered as part of the tasting menu and it hit the spot on a cold winter’s night.
For dessert, I loved the Mont-Blanc with quince condiment and matcha ice cream (13€), but I understand that not everyone is a fan of chestnut and matcha.
Citrus lovers would be crazy about this one: citrus crémeux with grapefruit, orange, hazelnut crumble, tarragon syrup, and Greek yogurt ice cream (13€).
ON THE WINE LIST
The list leans natural without being dogmatic, balancing grower Champagnes, oxidative Juras, and skin-contact Southern French wines with respected conventional producers like Simon Bize. Genuine values appear both by-the-glass (Trapet Riesling 10€) and by-the-bottle (Loire Chenin Blancs 47-88€, cru Beaujolais 34-66€), with most bottles clustering between 50-110€. Trophy outliers like Prieuré Roch Gevrey-Chambertin (435€) share space with rare curiosities like Kuheiji's Japanese-made Burgundy and premium Aligoté.
OUR VERDICT
This is cooking that manages to be both technically precise and deeply generous — a rare combination that makes Fugue one of the most exciting recent restaurant openings in Paris. The 75€ tasting menu offers exceptional value for food at this level, and the lunch menus (25-30€) are a steal. I also love that you can order à la carte. This is a strong choice for a special occasion that doesn't feel stuffy, or for a solo dinner at the counter where you can watch Chef Minatani work. Vegetarians should note there's very little here for them — this menu is built around meat, seafood, and foie gras. Worth the trip across town, even if Gare de l'Est isn't on your usual route.
FUGUE
128 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010
Open Thursday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Open Tuesday & Wednesday for dinner only
Closed Sunday & Monday
Reservations online or at +33 9 54 94 96 68
near Gare de l’Est and Gare du Nord
modern & creative with a tasting menu option
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Can’t wait to try while visiting in April. Thanks Meg !
Thanks for the gorgeous, tempting pictures. This is going on the list for my next Paris visit!