We’ve rated L’Escale as GOOD with two stars * *
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In the coming weeks I’ll be writing about some fancy tasting menus - destination restaurants that require a significant investment of money and time. But before I swim in these serious waters, I’d like to pause and celebrate a lowly dive.
L’Escale is a neighborhood joint in the non-neighborhood of the Île Saint-Louis. This island in the Seine doesn’t count a lot of local residents, so most customers are crossing bridges to get here. That feels like part of the appeal.
This restaurant’s name - L’Escale means “the stop-over” - tells you it’s not taking itself too seriously. This isn’t a high-flying restaurant that’s trying to change your life. It’s a café that wants to be a small part of your daily life… at least while you’re in Paris.
Stop in for a morning espresso at the counter, grab something to read from the ancient magazine rack, or meet a friend here for an easy lunch.
When the weather is warmer, there are tables outside overlooking the river. Earlier this fall, I noticed that they were (unusually) full and wondered why the corner café was suddenly so packed.
New ownership and a review from Le Fooding, that’s why. Dimitri Theuriau is now in charge of this vintage address, and he made the smart decision to leave the interior alone while installing Matthew Robertson in the kitchen. I first encountered this American chef a decade ago at Martin before he moved on to Auberge de Chassignolles and Le Garde Champêtre. I remembered his food as simple and honest, based on great products.
To have lunch here yesterday was a joy. As I settled into my tiny table and unwound the scarf from around my neck, I was presented with the day’s chalkboard menu. What I really wanted on this cold winter’s day was the soupe aux legumes, but this job has taught me to order for the camera. This hot pink salad made for a better photo.
It was also delicious. The bitter leaves of trévise (Italian chicory) were balanced with creamy Bleu d’Auvergne, perfectly toasted hazelnuts, and a smattering of fresh tarragon and chervil leaves (8€). This salad jolted me out my jet lagged state, having just flown in from the USA that morning.
My main was more of a comforting dive back under the covers. Three balls of Swiss chard were stuffed with ground pork and nestled on a bed of potato purée with some delicious hot broth to warm everything through (me included).
I didn’t have room for dessert, but I was curious enough to order it anyway. The classic Poire Belle-Hélène arrive as a perfectly poached pear coated in dark chocolate, paired with very good vanilla ice cream. Simple and delicious, like everything else here (9€).
My understanding is that Robertson works the lunch shift and that Mélanie Guigon (ex-Les Arlots) is in the kitchen at night. So far, I’ve only been for lunch. But I suspect that I’m going to be stopping into L’Escale on a regular basis - perhaps returning soon for the roast chicken and fries that they serve on Saturdays & Sundays.
This is an incomplete report since I haven’t yet been at night. But I wanted to tell you right away about this wonderful place where you can soak up Old Paris vibes in the smack dab center of the city. The food is honest and delicious and affordable. It has all of the appeal of Le Cornichon but with the added bonus of the Seine right outside the door. They’re open every day, and you can order snacks (cheese, Cantabrian anchovies, good olives) all afternoon long. A great option after visiting Notre-Dame or Shakespeare & Company, or before getting your ice cream fix at Berthillon.
L’ESCALE
1 Rue des Deux Ponts, 75004 Paris
Open Monday-Friday from 8am-2am
Open Saturday & Sunday from 9am-midnight
Reservations at +33 1 43 54 94 23 (probably not needed)
classically French
open Sunday
open Monday
easy to book
near Notre-Dame
outdoor dining
incredible view
affordable
good for solo diners
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Our restaurant index organizes the restaurants we’ve anonymously visited since 2021 by location and ranks them all as:
GREAT * * *
GOOD * *
FINE *
NOT RECOMMENDED
We were living on the Ile for a few weeks when we stumbled upon this place one beautiful day. We ate outside and had a great lunch. Views of ND and even Tour d'Argent!
Thanks for the review We will frequent again.
Thanks for this - it sounds great! I'm adding it to the list for my next Paris trip.