Maison

Remarkable, and remarkably better than before

I only write about 20% of the restaurants I visit because most of them are merely fine - neither remarkable nor amusingly bad. Assuming that you’re not interested in reading the written equivalent of a shrug, I keep my mouth shut unless there’s real news to share.

Maison, when I visited in February 2020, elicited a shrug. There was so much hype surroundi…