Le Chateaubriand

After 17 years, this pioneering restaurant is still provocative.

I recently heard from Gail Simmons, Top Chef judge and professional eater, asking me if Le Chateaubriand was still any good. I had no idea! I’d been half a dozen times since the restaurant opened in 2006. I watched it transform the city’s dining scene and saw it rise and fall in the World’s 50 Best rankings. I passed chef Iñaki Aizpitarte smoking outsid…