Le Servan

Why I love it, and what it means to be a great Paris restaurant

Le Servan is a special place, and the epitome of a great Paris restaurant.

What do I mean by great?

Great is one of four categories that we’ve recently begun using to classify the restaurants we review:

• GREAT - these are the restaurants you should prioritize

• GOOD - these restaurants make us happy but they’re not our top picks

• FINE - these restaurants come …