Le Petit Sommelier

A brasserie near Montparnasse that stratospherically exceeds the low standards of rail-side dining

Savvy diners avoid restaurants near train stations for the sensible reason that such establishments are essentially unaccountable to their captive, transitory clientele and lack any incentive to deliver quality. But anyone who has ever been pleasantly surprised by L’Express de Lyon – the geeky craft beer bar in front of the Gare de Lyon –­ will be doubl…