Since Yves Camdeborde’s audacious, standing-room-only French pintxo bar L’Avant Comptoir opened its doors in 2009, the superlatives to describe it have all been used up. Mouth-wateringly scrumptious! Flooding with natural wine! Pork-tastic!
The subsequent opening of two nearby sibling wine-bars (L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer and L’Avant Compto…