Chez l'Ami Louis

Clubby as hell but exceptionally fun... when someone else is paying

L'Ami Louis has been the subject of one of the most deliciously harsh critiques ever published. And while I adore reading A.A. Gill's particular brand of snuff review, with lines like "the cramped tables are set with labially pink cloths, which give it a colonic appeal and the awkward sense that you might be a suppository," I find myself in the uncomfor…