Benjamin Schmitt

Cassoulet + contemporary cuisine? He's pulling it off.

On one of the last truly chilly winter nights in Paris, I biked up the very steep rue Catherine de la Rochefoucauld to taste what several people had told me was an excellent cassoulet - one that might rival my favorite version at L’Assiette.

I was rewarded with a crock full of creamy and richly flavored beans, nicely browned sausage and decadent duck con…