Les Collonges is GREAT ★ ★ ★
12 Rue Francœur, 75018
Open Wednesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Open Tuesday for dinner only
Closed Sunday & Monday
Reservations online or at +33 1 73 75 54 57
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Not so long ago, I received a text about a “revelation dinner” at Les Collonges. To quote the sender, who runs one of my favorite Paris restaurants:
“I always think I want a delicious, simple but exciting meal and this place nails it. Ex-Pétrelle sous-chef, cool and smart wine list. Reasonably priced. Lovely.”
I also always want these things. And since Margaux is so adept at providing them at Juveniles, I was eager to try her recommendation. But what was Les Collonges?
I had never heard of this spot that opened four weeks ago on the backside of Montmartre, not far from Aléa, Double and Fana. And when I walked into a nearly empty dining room, it seemed that no one else had heard of it, either. Was Margaux leading me astray?
Certainly not. My first lunch at Les Collonges was among the best meals I’ve had all year. Chef Pierre-Étienne Leseute has burst onto the scene to become a new favorite.
The decor at Les Collonges is simple but stylish, with plenty of sunlight during the day and a warm glow from retro lighting at night. The tables are mix of wood and marble, and the glassware is elegant.
The wine list is Loire-heavy (lucky us) with lots of good bottles between 30-40€. That modest pricing has become increasingly rare in Paris. There are a few fun splurge bottles, and some kombucha and artisanal soda for non-drinkers.
Prices are easy at lunch, when you can have a main dish for 19€, 2 courses for 25€, 3 courses for 32€, 4 courses for 41€. At night you can choose a tasting menu (for the whole table) with five courses for 63€, or order à la carte, with starters priced around 15€ and mains ranging from 25-31€. The menu is short at both lunch and dinner with only three choices (one of them vegetarian) for each course. I love this format.
We went a little nuts and tried all three starters. There wasn’t a misstep among them.
This vegetarian mille-feuille paired squash with some lightly tart poached quince and the warm flavors of vadouvan (a sort of mild French curry). Buttered bread crumbs added crunch and the whole dish felt balanced and bright.
This sashimi of mulet noir was more cerebral, but no less delicious. The funky black mullet did a tango with aromatic citrus (a mix of fruits, including Buddha’s hand), but wasn’t overwhelmed by their brightness. The mushrooms and seaweed were grounding. A few bites of this felt like enough, but it was great.
By contrast, I could have eaten a mountain of their vitello tonnato. I often avoid ordering this classic Italian dish of cold sliced veal covered with a tuna spiked mayonnaise sauce. It’s usually good but rarely great, and it’s never much to look at. But here at Les Collonges, the sliced veal was pink and velvety and the sauce was unctuous and complex. Buttery croutons added texture, the vinaigrette-slicked herbs were bright, and the fried capers burst deliciously in every bite.
Another simple-seeming dish done incredibly well was this cannelloni of fig leaf with eggplant, ricotta and shiso. I’m not entirely sure what magic made this so incredibly delicious, but the elements came together to create pure comfort on a plate.
Still, I think I liked this even more: crispy chicken thigh wearing a sexy ribbon of Swiss chard, floating in a baby pool of delicata purée with bites of caramelized squash and shallot. Just enough crazy delicious jus. Nothing out of place. Everything cooked perfectly. Lovely.
After all this goodness, would desserts be a let-down?
Of course not. Behold this beautiful mille-feuille with crispy layers, rich vanilla cream, and a salty sesame praline. It was barely sweet and supremely delicious. We loved this dish.
Also great: this dessert highlighting the rich, intense flavor of the fragola grape. A tarragon mascarpone blanket was draped over the seasonal grapes, and a muesli cookie provided crunch from below.
I walked out of Les Collonges feeling satisfied, and so excited to share this new discovery that no one else has ever heard of. Then my phone pinged with an alert from Le Figaro calling Les Collonges “the discreet restaurant revelation of autumn in Paris.” The word is out!
Visit Les Collonges for lunch or dinner after you’ve spent time strolling the gorgeous backstreets of Montmartre, or after a visit to the marché aux puces (flea market) de Saint-Ouen. Or for no other reason than an excellent meal.
LES COLLONGES
12 Rue Francœur, 75018
Open Wednesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Open Tuesday for dinner only
Closed Sunday & Monday
Reservations online or at +33 1 73 75 54 57
modern & creative
easy to book
off the beaten track
in Montmartre
good for vegetarians
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We lunched at Les Collonges yesterday and were delighted. The service was charming and the food great. We were offered the chance at a table next to the open kitchen and very much enjoyed enjoyed watching the chefs work.
I was at Les Collings the other night and it was fantastic. While the restaurant filled up very quickly around 20:00, thr service was very attentive. Yes, the wine list is a bit Loire centered but there was an excellent Chablis Grand Cru to pair with my pouched Fois Gras which came from heaven and my perfectly pink scallops. The Mille-feulle for desert floated on air. I highly recommend that you try this place out. Yes it’s a little walk to the back side of Montmatre but well worth it.