Restaurant is rated FINE ★

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La Halle aux Grains opened inside the Bourse de Commerce in 2021, but I ignored it until recently.

Museum restaurants are not usually my beat. They tend to be built for the crowd already in the building, and they tend to take no risks. I made an exception here because the La Halle aux Grains is run by the Bras family, whose legendary restaurant in Laguiole has shaped how a generation of cooks thinks about vegetables.

I also made an exception because of the heat. Have you heard about the heat in Paris this summer? It feels like all anyone has talked about. I wrote an article about which Paris restaurants have air conditioning, then set about reserving them for my own selfish reasons. La Halle aux Grains was one of those.

It had two cool things going for it. The restaurant occupies the top floor of the Bourse de Commerce, the contemporary art museum that houses the Pinault Collection, and is heavily air-conditioned. Down in the rotunda, meanwhile, was Fujiko Nakaya’s Cloud #07156, a fog sculpture that fills the floor of the building with a low white cloud of water vapor, thickening until the people standing in it dissolve, then draining away and beginning again, in cycles, all day. It runs until 14 September.

When you are sweating in Paris, you become single-minded about cooling down. A walk into a cold cloud, then dinner in air conditioning, sounded like heaven. As a heat wave strategy, it worked. Whether this is a good restaurant is more complicated.

THE FOOD

Overall, the cooking was pleasant. I wasn’t blown away, but I wasn’t expecting to be.

The escargots were the surprise of the meal, and the most delicious plate on the table. Snails from the Aveyron, fried in a light batter until crisp, with samphire and anchovy and a bright green purée underneath. The small buckwheat blinis scattered around them felt a little beside the point, but I couldn’t stop eating them.

Grilled sucrine is everywhere in Paris right now, and it can be delicious (as seen recently at Mokonuts and Calcifer). This one was a little wimpy. Without a more aggressive char, cooked sucrine just feels wilted and wet. But the bigger problem was the company it kept. Puffed bulgur, fromage blanc and raspberries feel like breakfast to me. And they didn’t understand why they were dancing with damp salad.

This pollack was beautifully cooked, and everything on the plate with it was delicious. It was also very light: white fish, white bean purée, whole white beans, pale cabbage. The black garlic was the punchy note, the one thing with any depth to it. It felt like the unnamed diet plate — something that a lot of well-heeled restaurants subtly offer — the dish that lets you feel virtuous…

… until the pan of deliciously unvirtuous aligot arrives to share. It’s the mountain dish of the Aubrac, potato purée beaten with young tomme cheese until it turns elastic and pulls in long ropes off the fork. A small portion, gobbled greedily.

This beef was cooked well but there was nothing lusty about it. Aubrac beef is a regional flag, and it pairs with the expensive reds on the list, and it slices neatly out of a sous-vide bag. Any of those could be the reason it’s here. I wasn’t drawn in. Nothing wrong with it, nothing exciting either, which is roughly what I expect from a museum restaurant feeding an international crowd. Safe and fine. The split-pea gnocchi alongside were stodgy, as split-pea gnocchi will be, and rolled in crushed pistachio. Not unpleasant, but not thrilling, either.

Both desserts arrive as mysteries to be solved. What’s under the cloud? What’s inside the stone-looking cylinder?

You break the candyfloss and find a ring of blanc-manger filled with lemon cream, which looks unnervingly like a hard-boiled egg.

You break the cylinder and rhubarb runs out of it, an interpretation of the coulant Michel Bras made in 1981. Both were fun and both tasted good. The cloud will suit a sweeter tooth than mine.

There are three ways to eat at La Halle aux Grains. At lunch, there’s a set three-course menu for 57€ or longer tasting menus for 98€ and 118€. At dinner, you can order a six-course tasting menu at 118€ or a vegetarian version for 98€. You can also order à la carte, with starters from 23-37€ and mains 37-49€.

THE DRINKS

If you want to drink something special by the glass and are willing to pay for it, this list will thrill you. There’s a Bourgogne Chardonnay from Jean-Marc Roulot at 22€, a Saint-Joseph from Jean-Louis Chave also at 22€, a Carignan from Olivier Jullien at 18€, a Sancerre from Anne Vatan at 20€. Château Palmer and Château Latour each bottle a cuvée de grains for the house. These are growers who rarely appear by the glass anywhere, and a Coravin list extends the range further, from a Meursault Premier Cru at 38€ to a Clos Vougeot at 85€. It’s notably expensive, and the pours are 8cl, smaller than you find in many places.

The bottle list runs deepest in white Burgundy, where Jean-Marc Boillot alone accounts for seven bottles, and that is where the climbing starts. Bordeaux is the other tower, with a Latour vertical that reaches 1 950€. The good surprises are at the bottom. Marcillac from Philippe and Julien Teulier opens the reds at 38€, Aveyron wine on an Aveyron family’s list. Domaine d’Aupilhac runs a vertical from Montpeyroux, 140€ to 350€, and François Chidaine covers Montlouis and Vouvray from 110€.

Non-drinkers get a dealcoholized sparkling from French Bloom at 16€, and bottled gentian lemonade from Brasserie d’Olt in the Aveyron — bitter, dry and delicious.

THE VIBE

The way up is one of the highlights. The staircase carries you past the ring of painted canvases that circles the lower dome, 140 meters of them, finished in 1889 for the Exposition Universelle as a hymn to French commerce across five continents. Below sits Tadao Ando’s concrete cylinder. There’s also an elevator for those who need it.

The restaurant itself is a long curved arc on the third floor, and the windows run along the outer edge only. Everyone photographs the view. Very few tables have it. The rest of the floor is divided into open bays, screened from each other by hanging curtains and open to the corridor. We sat in one of those. We could see the passage and the diners in the next bay through the weave. We could not see Paris.

The curtains look like chainmail and are cloth, a pale gray grid that filters light. Tables are small and dark on thin metal legs. A squat lamp with a rough orange shade sits on each one, and a drinks trolley waits at the edge of the floor. The effect is a well-made airport lounge.

The room saves itself in a heat wave. It was blissfully cool, which is not nothing on a top floor under a glass roof in July. The sealed, screened, climate-controlled quality that makes the place feel corporate on a mild evening is exactly what you want when Paris is one hundred degrees.

The service was lovely, friendly and professional throughout. The pacing was a little slow. I may not have noticed had I liked being in that room more.

It’s worth noting that we were invited several times to eat as guests of the restaurant. We declined, booked under another name, and paid. Had we accepted an invitation, we might not have discovered what the ordinary seats feel like.

THE VERDICT

I’m rating this ★ FINE. I wouldn’t recommend it highly on the food or the vibe alone, but a few things make La Halle aux Grains worth knowing about. It’s open in August, when much of Paris is closed. It’s heavily air-conditioned. It’s centrally located. It has a vegetarian tasting menu at dinner. It’s open every day of the year but a handful.

La Halle aux Grains, in other words, is a problem solver. If you have no constraints and you’re searching solely for great food, this wouldn’t be my first choice. But I can think of a lot of challenges to which La Halle aux Grains might be the answer. Or at least a compelling option.

LA HALLE AUX GRAINS

Bourse de Commerce — 2 rue de Viarmes, 75001
Open every day for dinner
Open Wednesday-Monday for lunch
Closed Tuesday lunch
Reservations online or at +33 1 82 71 71 60

Through 23 August only: no dinner service. Lunch and afternoon only, every day except Tuesday, with a shortened summer menu. Normal hours resume 24 August.

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We don’t have much for you in the 16th. Readers ask about it often, usually because they’re staying here and have discovered that the neighborhood’s restaurants are mostly expensive, mostly dull, or both. Alt is neither. It’s a five-minute walk from the Arc de Triomphe, it seats eight people, and the cooking is some of the most precise classical French work I’ve eaten this year.

Alt is run by two chefs. Kazuaki Aoi comes from Japan, trained at Taillevent under Alain Solivérès, and he cooks. Sungmi Lee, from Korea, came up through the Robuchon kitchens in Singapore. She runs the room, assembles the starters, and was our very friendly server. They met working at L’Assiette.

There is no tasting menu and no lunch formula. You order from a short carte of three starters, three mains, and two desserts, plus one dish on a printed card that changes. Three courses runs about 55€ with service included.

THE FOOD

The best thing we ate was also the biggest surprise. Golden-seared sweetbreads arrive with prawns, oyster mushrooms and a parmesan cream. I'd never had sweetbreads with shrimp before and found the combination brilliant — the shellfish sweetness cutting the richness of the offal. It's also a starter portion, which almost nobody does. You get the joy of sweetbreads without committing to an entire lobe.

The leeks vinaigrette is a house signature, on the menu at the same price for well over a year. Leek batons are stacked into a round, blanketed in lemony crab, scattered with toasted buckwheat and veiled in sheets of turnip sliced thin enough to read through. It's very pretty. Under the turnip there is a genuinely generous amount of crab.

The roast veal was made excellent by its jus. The meat came evenly rosy from edge to edge, but it's the reduction that lifts it, dark and glossy and properly concentrated. It comes with confit potatoes, green beans, peas and a spoonful of very buttery purée.

The poached sea bass was beautifully cooked and generously portioned, arriving under the last wild asparagus of the season alongside more of that buttery potato purée. Another delicious sauce, a lightly foamed white wine sauce flecked with herbs.

Both desserts are worth ordering. The chocolate cake is indulgent, closer to mousse than cake in texture, served with a chocolate mousse quenelle and delicious red wine caramel. Chocolate lovers shouldn’t skip it.

The strawberries lift in the other direction, icy and fresh under a mound of lemon granita, and the Earl Grey cream underneath is surprisingly rich.

If you go looking for the exact dishes above, you may not find them. The carte moves with the season and the garnishes rotate. But the leeks and the chocolate have been there for over a year, and the sweetbreads with parmesan cream seem to be a fixture that changes its accompaniments.

THE DRINKS

The list is short, classical and almost entirely French, which is what the food asks for. Burgundy runs deepest, from a Matrot Maranges at 49€ up through Simon Bize’s Savigny-lès-Beaune premier cru and a Dominique Laurent Chambolle-Musigny. The Rhône and the Loire each get a handful of bottles. Bordeaux gets two. There is little here from the natural wine world, and bottles start in the mid-30s.

The part worth knowing about is the by-the-glass offer. Still wines are 7€ to 9€ and the Leclerc Briant champagne is 14€. Those are café prices in a room with white tablecloths and Christofle silver. The selection rotates, so what’s poured when you go won’t necessarily match what I saw.

Non-alcoholic options aren’t noteworthy: a few juices from Alain Milliat, Lorina lemonade, and Coke.

THE VIBE

The room came with the building and they’ve mostly left it alone. Worn pink marble tile, tobacco banquettes, a long patinated wood counter, globe pendants, mirrors. On a shelf near the bar there are three books to look at while you wait, Escoffier’s Guide culinaire, Bocuse’s Le Gibier, and Dumas’s Petit dictionnaire de cuisine. On the back bar, framed, there’s an old menu from Taillevent. Nothing in this room is trying to tell you it’s new.

We ate on a Wednesday in June, in the middle of high tourist season, and there was only one other table occupied. While we ate, an American man came in to book a table for a future dinner, then asked whether he could come back that same night. Alt clearly has people who love it. It doesn’t yet have enough of them for the room to have any energy, and that’s the whole distance between good and great here.

Some diners will find an eight-seat room with two other people in it romantic. But I want food this great to have an audience. I wonder if the booking might have something to do with this problem. There’s no online reservation system at Alt. Le Monde has described the phone-only booking as a charming anachronism, a small act of human contact in a digital age. I found it awkward, in both French and English. It took three attempts to get through and the interaction was strained. If you’re booking from abroad in a language you don’t speak, this is a genuine obstacle, and it’s standing between this kitchen and the room it deserves. I really want them to open online bookings, require a deposit, and serve a full house.

THE VERDICT

★★ GOOD. The cooking is better than good. If I were rating the plates alone this would be a GREAT, and the sauce work is as good as anything I’ve eaten in Paris this year. What holds it back is a dining room that hasn’t found its people yet.

Go if you’re staying near the Arc de Triomphe and want a serious lunch. Go if you love classical French cooking done properly by people who aren’t performing it. Go if you want sweetbreads without ordering a whole plate of them. Go on a Monday, when lots of other restaurants are closed. Don’t go looking for a scene, because there isn’t one yet. And it’s a terrible idea for vegetarians, with no dish on the carte free of meat or seafood.

ALT

25 Rue le Sueur, 75016
Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner
Open Saturday for dinner only
Closed Sunday
Reservations at +33 1 45 00 13 05

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Restaurants rated “not recommended” are not included on this page

Organized by Location

75001

Around the Louvre, Palais Royal & Les Halles

• Au Pied de Cochon

• Le Jardin Cheval Blanc - from May-September

• Loulou

• Maslow

• Le Tout-Paris

75002

Around Bourse & Sentier

• Casa Pregonda

• Brasserie Dubillot

• Breizh Café

• Tekés - dinner only

75003

The Northern Marais

• Anne - lunch on…

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Organized by Location

75001

Around the Louvre, Palais Royal & Les Halles

• Au Pied de Cochon

• Juveniles

• Le Jardin Cheval Blanc - from May-September

• Loulou

• Maslow

• Omar Dhiab

• Palais Royal Restaurant

• Le Tout-Paris

• Verjus

75002

Around Bourse & Sentier

• Breizh Café

• La Bourse et la Vie

• Brasserie Dubillot

• Chez Georges

• Tekés

75003

The Northern Marais

• Breizh Café

• Café des Musées

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Benjamin Schmitt is GOOD ★ ★

41 rue Catherine de la Rochefoucauld, 75009
Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Closed Sunday & Monday
Reservations online or at +33 1 42 81 00 17

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Benjamin Schmitt trained at Le Meurice and Taillevent before opening a spot of his own on a quiet street in the 9th, a few minutes downhill from Montmartre. At his eponymous restaurant he has become known for one dish, a cassoulet de Castelnaudary, and that reputation is deserved. But his cassoulet is the outlier on a menu that otherwise runs modern and refined.

We first reviewed him in 2024 and put him on our list of 50 Favorites in Paris. We always return to restaurants on that list to see whether they still belong there. Often, unfortunately, the answer is no. But here it’s yes, and what struck me on this return visit was the saucing. Chef Schmitt can make a sauce. While proper reduction has gone missing from a lot of modern Paris kitchens, saucing is the strongest thing about this place. Every plate has something luscious pulling every element together. Here’s what we loved during a recent heat wave dinner.

THE FOOD

The meal opened with two colorful starters that were served room temperature — a gesture of kindness on a sweltering evening.

Baby artichokes came cooked in olive oil with beef cecina and black olives. The dried beef brought a subtle earthiness that we welcomed, and it bathed in a luscious bouillon with barigoule vibes.

The tomato tartlet was a favorite. Stewed and raw tomatoes sat under a quenelle of fresh herb sorbet, with house-smoked sardines. It tasted like summer itself.

The tuna was perfectly cooked, but the glazed and smoked eggplant alongside stole the show. A crab jus scented with coriander pulled the plate together, and the green harissa lifted everything it touched.

The pork loin showed the same hand. Charcutière sauce is a mustard and cornichon pan sauce built on demi-glace, and it did exactly what it should. The pork was cooked beautifully, the flame-cooked romaine charred and bitter against the smoked mustard.

But the pork reminded me of something I noticed here two years ago. There are a lot of elements in every dish. Really a lot, and right at the edge of too many. This is common with young chefs. He could take something off. A little restraint can be a sign of confidence.

The desserts show that he knows how. Each is built on two or three good elements and nothing more. The strawberry and rhubarb pavlova was puckery tart and fresh tasting, a pink dome over frosted yogurt with poached rhubarb and strawberry underneath.

The Madagascar bourbon vanilla (a type of vanilla, not whiskey) was the simpler construction. Curved shards of crisp gavotte stood in for a crust, with light vanilla cream and a caramelized pecan ice cream that was the star. Pecan is an unusual flavor to find in France.

THE DRINKS

The list has grown into the most surprising thing in the building. Schmitt built it himself, which is unusual, and he buys direct from growers with particular attention to the Rhône, where he’s from. The house counts more than 900 references.

There are trophies at the top, and a grower Champagne section deep enough to embarrass restaurants with more Michelin stars. That’s not why the list matters. Underneath sits a real working cellar, and you can drink beautifully here without spending in the hundreds. Natural and low-intervention bottles run across the Loire, the Rhône, Corsica, and the Languedoc in the 45€ to 90€ range, alongside serious Chablis, a strong Aligoté run, and a curious foreign section reaching into Georgia, Austria, and Portugal. Bottles start at 37€.

By the glass is small but well chosen. We drank a Saumur chenin from Brendan Stater-West (12€) and a Patrimonio rosé from Domaine Giacometti (11€). Reds run from 9-14€ and there’s grower Champagne at 16€.

Non-drinkers have a small handful of options, including Archipel fig-leaf kombucha (my favorite bottled n/a option) and a few juices and teas.

THE VIBE

The dining room is grown-up. A navy zellige wall runs herringbone behind a velvet banquette, with a large mirror doubling the space and warm sconces overhead. Raw stone columns rise from a pale oak floor. The tables are small, close together, and without tablecloths. It reads considered rather than grand. Service was ultra-professional. We ate during a heat wave and the air conditioning was working well.

A spiral staircase leads down to the cave, where a long wood table sits among the caged racks under a stone vault. That’s the chef’s table, available for groups of six to ten, with a custom menu from 85€ per person before drinks. It’s a real cellar rather than a basement dressed up as one, which is the appeal.

THE VERDICT

Benjamin Schmitt isn't chasing cool, and this restaurant won't appeal to anyone who is. Who might love it: locals who don't want to overpay for great cooking. Wine lovers. Air conditioning aficionados. Bring a parent or a colleague here and you’ll be well cared for. Or bring a big group and fill out the downstairs chef’s table.

Two years on, the ★★ rating holds, and Schmitt keeps his place on our 50 Favorites.

BENJAMIN SCHMITT

41 rue Catherine de la Rochefoucauld, 75009
Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Closed Sunday & Monday
Reservations online or at +33 1 42 81 00 17

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Bourbon has nothing to do with whiskey. Réunion was called Île Bourbon until 1848, and the name attached itself to the vanilla the island exported. Madagascar now grows the large majority of the world’s crop.

Bourbon vanilla is the vanilla flavor most people carry in their heads — it’s rich, creamy, sweet, and heavy on vanillin. Tahitian vanilla is a different species and leans more floral. If a pastry chef specifies Bourbon, they’re going for depth rather than perfume.

Where we’ve eaten it:

Benjamin Schmitt (2026) — Vanille Bourbon de Madagascar, gavotte croustillante, crème vanille, glace pécan caramélisé.

Small artichokes are trimmed to the heart and cooked slowly in olive oil and white wine with carrot, onion, garlic and herbs. Barigoulo is Provençal for a local mushroom and the 18th-century original stuffed artichokes with chopped mushrooms and cooked them in oil. The mushrooms dropped out of the recipe, but the name stayed.

The cooking liquid reduces into a light, lemony broth rather than a thick sauce. Lardons or a scrap of cured pork often go in, and the stock is usually chicken, so it isn’t a safe vegetarian bet without asking.

You’ll see it two ways in Paris: as a starter in its own right, served warm or at room temperature. It’s sometimes served as a garnish beneath fish, listed as barigoule d’artichauts, where the vegetables and their broth become the bed for the plate..

Where we’ve eaten it:

Benjamin Schmitt (2026) Artichauts en barigoule, cecina de bœuf, olives noires.

The name means the pork butcher’s sauce, and that tells you what it’s for. Grilled or sautéed pork, almost always. In Paris you’ll meet it on a côte de porc, a roast, and sometimes alongside an andouillette. The acidity from the cornichons helps to cut the richness of the pork.

Where we’ve eaten it:

Benjamin Schmitt (2026) Échine de porc grillée, laitue braisée, soubise d'oignon, moutarde fumée, sauce charcutière.

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Datil is GOOD ★★

13 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003
Open Wednesday-Friday for lunch & dinner
Open Monday & Tuesday for dinner only
Closed Saturday & Sunday
Reservations online or at +33 1 80 05 74 98

Reminder: You can find more than 300 additional restaurants, all anonymously reviewed, rated and organized by location, in our restaurant index here:

In the autumn of 2023, I texted a friend from the middle of a meal to tell them I was eating something outstanding. That happens a few times a year, out of more than a hundred restaurants. It happened then at Datil.

Datil opened that year on rue des Gravilliers, in the northern Marais, in a long atelier with a glass roof over the middle of it. It is the first restaurant from Manon Fleury, who runs the kitchen with her co-chef Laurène Barjhoux. The food is plant-forward with fish and meat used as condiment rather than centerpiece — and the whole project is built on short supply chains, small producers, and a zero-waste ethic that feels real rather than decorative.

In 2023, my five-course menu felt like a steal. It opened with a suite of four small things all made from corn, including a broth infused from the parts of the cob that usually get thrown away, and it was smart and delicious at once. There was one dish I didn’t love. It didn’t matter. At 65€, a bargain absorbs a misstep. I rated Datil GREAT and put it on our 50 Favorites, where it stayed until our most recent update.

I returned in June to check on Datil, as we do for every restaurant that’s on our list of 50 favorites. The most important change I noted is that the price has risen since Datil was awarded a Michelin star. Lunch is now 95€, a 46% increase for the same five courses.

THE FOOD

The meal opens exactly as it did in 2023 — a four-part overture built from a single vegetable, with the discarded parts of that vegetable infused into a drink. This June it was asparagus: a consommé of asparagus skins, a cracking tuile, a small pot of sliced asparagus concealing a cold-confited egg yolk, and a tremendous herb fritter.

The fritter was the best thing on the table: a whole fistful of herbs, fried, salty and light and fun to eat with your fingers. It was also the only part of this overture with no asparagus in it.

When the next course arrived, the asparagus reappeared. White spears stood upright, draped in a foam flavored with capers, parmesan, anchovy, parsley and lemon. A Caesar salad, essentially, and a good one. I liked it.

I liked it and I was still annoyed, because it was the fourth asparagus dish at a time when Paris markets were full of so many other delicious things — broad beans, artichokes, courgettes, radishes and cherries. The restaurant has since explained on Instagram that this was deliberate — for the first time, two dishes built together with asparagus as the through-line. Which means nobody in the kitchen was troubled by the repetition. I thought it was a spear too far.

The kohlrabi course was lovely, and the best-conceived plate of the day: raw shaved courgette and kohlrabi sharpened with preserved lemon and cornichon, over a pumpkin seed pesto, with a saffron sauce poured on top. It looked beautiful and it ate beautifully.

The fourth course, “salads, apricot and tuna,” is two plates, and they could not have been further apart.

The tuna was a ssam, after the Korean dish — tuna and roast apricot on butter lettuce, to be folded and eaten by hand. It was genuinely good, and if I’d been served it on its own I’d have been happy.

The other plate was a mistake. It’s described as a millefeuille of different salad leaves: layers of potato, a filling of almond praline with fresh apricot and nasturtium leaves on top, and a butternut-almond-miso condiment on the side. Individually, none of those things is wrong. Together they tasted like two or three different vegan dishes from a food co-op, mixed in a takeout box on the way home. I ate very little of it.

Dessert was a fraisier, deconstructed — sponge, whole strawberries, a tarragon-infused cream, and an olive sorbet for depth. The restaurant describes it as a childhood birthday memory rebuilt with pastry chef Ysaline Guibertin.

Mignardises followed, closing with a tea infused from plum stones, the same gesture as in 2023.

THE DRINKS

The wine list is beautiful, heavily weighted toward female producers, and it climbs steeply — reds open around 50€ and reach 350€. Pairings are 65€ at lunch and 85€ at dinner, and on my previous visit I put myself in the sommelier’s hands and she really delivered.

But beyond the wine list, Datil is an outstanding place for non-alcoholic drinks. There’s a house pétillant alternatif called Oma Frida, made with verjus, linden, rosemary and elderflower (12€). There’s a cold-brewed Milky Oolong served iced, four juices from Nos jardins imparfaits in the Franche-Comté at 11€ each, and kombuchas from Archipel in Paris. And there are full 75cl bottles, properly made, at 40–45€.

We drank the Oma Frida to start and then a bottle of Elsa Steullet’s “Christine,” a fermented pear with meadowsweet and citron, for 40€. It was the same sommelier who steered us there, and she was as good on this list as she is on the wine.

THE VIBE

The feeling is unchanged, and still lovely. The room is calm and full of light. Service is warm, unhurried, and entirely free of the stiffness that a star often brings.

And it’s still very earnest: you are handed a printed card before you eat: nineteen staff named, eight producers thanked by first name, an invitation to listen to their recorded voices in the bathroom, a promise of generosity and joy and attention to human and environmental issues.

I believe all of it. The zero-waste ethic is genuinely on the plate — the asparagus skins in the consommé, the plum stones in the closing tea. The producers are real. The kindness is real.

THE VERDICT

Following this return visit, Datil moves from ★★★ GREAT to ★★ GOOD, and comes off our list of 50 Favorites. Nothing here is broken. The kitchen can plainly cook: the tuna ssam, the kohlrabi and the herb fritter were all excellent, and the asparagus Caesar was a delight despite the repetition. The room is one of the nicest in the Marais. The sommelier is a pleasure.

What’s missing is someone saying no. No to a fourth asparagus. No to the salad millefeuille. In 2023 those calls barely mattered, because lunch was 65€ and a bargain forgives a dud. At 95€ I need the dishes to hit differently. I need to not feel repetition. I need a little more excitement alongside my kitchen scrap recycling.

Still go if you want one of the most thoughtful non-alcoholic drinks programs in Paris — this is a restaurant where a non-drinker eats and drinks properly, not apologetically.

Still go if you’re vegetarian — the tasting menu as printed is not vegetarian, but the kitchen will make it so if you ask when you book. I confirmed this with the staff. Given how good this kitchen is with vegetables, that’s a real offer.

Think twice if you are counting the cost. When I think of the other tasting menu lunches I’ve recently loved (Ebène, Cypsèle, Bittikesu), Datil isn’t delivering at the same level. Datil is still good, but there’s a gap now between the plate and the price.

DATIL

13 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003
Open Wednesday-Friday for lunch & dinner
Open Monday & Tuesday for dinner only
Closed Saturday & Sunday
Reservations online or at +33 1 80 05 74 98

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Reminder: You can find more than 300 additional restaurants, all anonymously reviewed, rated and organized by location, in our restaurant index here:

Le Christine sits on the rue Christine in a pocket of the 6th where galleries, antique shops, and small bookstores outnumber every other kind of commerce. The Beaux-Arts is a stone’s throw away. These quiet streets are the Saint-Germain that travelers dream about, including the many readers and tour guests who have recommended Le Christine to me. I finally followed your advice and made it into this restaurant with a giant fork mounted over its green facade.

Chef Rodolphe Despagne, whose training runs through Garance and Le Grand Véfour, developed a passion for fermentation and smoking during a stint in Copenhagen, and both threads run visibly through his cooking. This is his first menu as head chef, and it’s a confident one. But I have strong thoughts on how to order here.

I first came in April with three of our wonderful tour guides. We ordered à la carte that night, and the experience left me frustrated. I loved the food, but the prices were high for portions that felt shockingly small. In June, I returned to try a different format — the six-course tasting menu with the wine pairing, and it was one of the most exciting meals I’ve had in Saint-Germain. Good enough, in fact, to land Le Christine on our list of 50 Favorite Restaurants in Paris.

THE FOOD

The June tasting began the way both meals here begin: with a parade of amuse-bouches. A miniature olive tree arrives hung with edible “olives” that snap open into gilda flavors of anchovy and pepper.

My favorite was “roasted chicken in one bite” — chicken breast mixed with wine, dehydrated, and layered with lettuce. It sounds strange, and it tasted uncannily like a bite of Sunday roast chicken with salad. I also loved the puff pastry filled with Isigny cream and Parmesan, topped with briny bottarga.

From there, the six courses (105€). The white asparagus arrives over a thin tart with a sauce of vin jaune and 30-month Comté, finished with a drizzle of fir tree oil.

The grilled sardine is the chef’s signature dish: draped with smoky lardo di Colonnata over a beurre blanc with toasted kombu oil, with small fried croutons beneath for crunch. It comes with the house-made brioche feuilletée, fermented for three days before baking.

The amberjack comes in two parts. First, some luxurious slices of amberjack belly smoked on the barbecue, served over a tempura bite with horseradish. Next: filet of amberjack that’s been matured for a week, swimming in a sauce of kombu infused with rhubarb and elderflower.

The quail is a highlight — marinated in krung, a Cambodian aromatic paste built on lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, garlic, and turmeric, then grilled over binchotan alongside charred sucrine lettuce. The cold white sauce is spiked with Kampot pepper. The Cambodian thread is personal: the chef’s wife comes from Cambodia, and her influence runs through the menu alongside Despagne’s fermentation work.

The cheese course, inspired by the work of Anne-Sophie Pic, is extra-old Mimolette with honey and lemon: familiar flavors that are hard to imagine together, and very successful.

Dessert is a chocolate soufflé crêpe with buckwheat praline, sobacha custard, and puffed buckwheat on top.

Mignardises close the meal: a rice pudding cake, a mini Saint-Honoré, and melon pâte de fruit.

The portions and pacing all made sense with this tasting menu format (105€). By the end of that dinner in June, our table was unanimous: Le Christine is a surprisingly wonderful restaurant. I don’t think any of us expected to eat this well surrounded by travelers in the heart of Saint-Germain.

Our verdict was different in April. That night we ordered à la carte, and I need to warn you against doing the same. The cooking was delicious — I wanted more of everything at every turn — but the à la carte portions were confusingly smaller than tasting-menu portions.

The roasted saddle of lamb (44€) was a single two-inch medallion that was smaller than the accompanying leaf. Two bites, max.

The scallop main (42€) appeared to be one fat scallop, sliced in half and fanned into several segments. The portions were so unusually small that I genuinely wondered if the kitchen had made a mistake.

There were many bright spots, including the asparagus tart that we tasted again in June, but we left the table hungry. My guests felt ripped off on my behalf. The return visit in June was a redemption for this kitchen, but I have to underline that Le Christine works best when you order the tasting menu.

THE DRINKS

The wine list runs past 500 references, with serious depth in Burgundy and a really excellent selection of champagnes — which we made use of in April, when I learned an hour before dinner that one of our guides had received her French citizenship that very day. A friend in the wine industry studied the list online and steered us to R. Pouillon's "Les Chataigniers" (139€), a single-vineyard Pinot Meunier that made the toast feel properly celebratory. Le Christine also offers wine pairings with both tasting menus (55€ with the five-course, 75€ with the six). We went this route in June and were very happy. The sommelier was very chatty and glad to share detail about every selection. For non-drinkers, there are house fermentations — a honey ginger beer and a red fruit kombucha (9€) — along with juices from L'Arbre à Jus.

THE VIBE

The dining room mixes exposed stone and terra cotta walls, old dark beams overhead, and herringbone parquet with softer touches: pleated string pendant lamps, velvet banquettes, a wainscot of scalloped green tile, tabletops traced in raised web-like patterns. A window at the back opens onto the kitchen. Nothing about the room is chasing a trend — this is not the young, natural-wine-fueled energy of the 11th. Le Christine is built for a well-heeled Saint-Germain crowd that wants to be cared for, in comfortable banquettes, with service that moves seamlessly into English when necessary.

THE VERDICT

If you order the tasting menu — 80€ for five courses (with a vegetarian option available) or 105€ for six — Le Christine is an easy recommendation. It’s ambitious, personal cooking in the prettiest corner of Saint-Germain, with warm English-friendly service. They are open every day. There's also a three-course lunch at 45€ on weekdays, which may be the gentlest introduction of all. Just don't order à la carte.

LE CHRISTINE

1 Rue Christine, 75006
Open every day for lunch & dinner
Reservations online or at +33 1 40 51 71 64

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COMING TO PARIS ?

We’d love to welcome you for a food tour! For more than a decade, we’ve been offering delicious walking tours of Paris’s best artisan food shops. Three hours, led in English by true experts, 8 guests max.

Learn more about our tours

Our food tours have been praised by The New York Times, Food & Wine magazine, the BBC, the Washington Post, Rick Steves, and the LA Times. We’ve been the #1 food tour on TripAdvisor for more than a decade.

Calcifer is GOOD ★ ★

41 Rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, 75003
Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch & dinner
Closed Monday & Tuesday
Reservations online or at +33 1 86 04 90 83

Reminder: You can find more than 300 additional restaurants, all anonymously reviewed, rated and organized by location, in our restaurant index here:

Live-fire restaurants usually announce themselves with smoke and swagger. Calcifer is quieter than that. The flame here isn’t the point so much as the method — it turns up the flavor of whatever it touches and then gets out of the way. When it works, as it does with a duck breast I’m still thinking about, the results are as good as anything I’ve eaten this year.

The restaurant opened this spring in the old Istr space near République. It’s the first solo venture for Antoine Rollin, who ran dining rooms at Le Gabriel, Le Bistrot Flaubert, and Hémicycle. In the kitchen is Gaétano Carpinelli, a young Italian chef who trained at Passerini and Maison Troisgros. The cooking is Basque and Spanish at heart, with flashes of Asian spice.

THE FOOD

The menu moves fast. I ate here twice in seventeen days and nearly everything had changed from one carte to the next. But one constant — for very good reason — is the magret de canard. The duck breast arrives sliced over green beans, the skin crusted dark in licorice, the meat beneath rosy and yielding, fresh-herb condiments cutting the sweetness. It’s one of the best things I’ve eaten this year.

The kitchen is just as good on beef. The picanha of Jersey beef came properly charred and evenly rare, sliced onto a silver platter in its own jus — the sort of thing that looks simple and almost never is.

And if you’re dining with seafood lovers, order the whole Brill in pil pil. A whole fish arrives bronzed and glistening in a collagen-enriched sauce slicked with sliced garlic and a scatter of guindilla chilies — a classic Basque preparation, executed beautifully.

The suckling pig is the one thing I’d pass on. The skin blisters and lacquers as it should and it’s beautifully cooked. But an animal this size ought to be somebody’s favorite dish, and it wasn’t anyone’s.

These big dishes come without sides, but you should order some - we were crazy about the roasted potatoes and charred padron peppers (8€ each). We loved the smoked sucrine lettuce so much that we ordered a second plate (5€).

The beginning of the menu — the “mets” section — contains some notable treasures.

One of the best things I ate here barely met the fire at all: three fingers of grilled bread under a slick of herbed butter and a glossy Basque anchovy.

The morcilla with eggplant and salsa roja won’t be for everyone — blood sausage rarely is. But the vinegary red pepper sauce slices straight through the richness, the spicing is precise, and I ate most of it while the rest of the table hesitated.

The langoustines were lovely — sweet, smoky, barely touched by the flame. So were the wild clams in a mild green curry that I enjoyed on my first visit. There were advertised in the mets section alongside genuinely shareable things like the anchovy toasts, but neither dish is really shareable. A single slim langoustine split between friends is a tease rather than a course, and the clams were too few to divide. I wanted more of both.

White asparagus, charred over the coals and laid in a frothy cream flecked with lovage and acacia blossom, is stunning — smoke, cream and a floral lift, precisely balanced. But it’s another small plate, and it’s the only thing here a vegetarian could really eat, aside from the sides. Sized up and dressed up a little, it could be a genuine vegetarian main. As it stands, there isn’t one.

It’s odd to question the generosity of a restaurant whose big plates are frequently too much to finish. But it’s hard to know from the menu whether you’re ordering a bite or a platter. I’m a fan of the food, but the menu would benefit from a little more clarity about which dishes are bites and which are meant to be shared.

If you ordered big, you might want to finish with a light and refreshing lemon sorbet. But if you have room, I recommend tarta de queso, a burnt Basque cheesecake, barely set in the middle, with a roasted apricot alongside. And a friend of mine raved about their sticky toffee pudding.

THE DRINKS

The wine list runs to a dozen pages and it’s a serious document, balancing natural and low-intervention bottles against classified Bordeaux and grand cru Burgundy. Bottles start at 30€ and there’s a real working list in the 40–65€ range.

The Jura is unusually deep for a restaurant this size. Against smoke and animal fat, this is the smartest corner of the list; the Fumey-Chatelain Arbois chardonnay (54€) is what I’d pour with almost everything here. The Loire is nearly as good, with Chidaine and Huet in Montlouis and Vouvray, a run of Sancerre that climbs to three different François Cotat bottlings, and reds from Amirault and Alliet. Elsewhere the list shows its southern personality: Gauby and Roc d’Anglade from the Languedoc, Léon Barral, Commando G and Alberto Orte from Spain, Giudicelli from Corsica. There’s a prestige tier if you want it — Château Latour, Château-Grillet, a Meursault 1er cru at 272€ — but it isn’t the point, and nobody will push you toward it.

Cocktails are simple and well made — a negroni or a margarita at 12€, a tinto de verano at 7€ that is exactly right in a heat wave. The non-alcoholic list includes a Tanqueray 0.0 gin and tonic (11€), Peroni 0.0 (7€), and house apple juice (8€).

THE VIBE

The room is appealing. The front is a proper old-Paris brasserie — mosaic floor in russet and olive, white globe lights, deep tan leather booths, a dark wood bar. Walk through and it turns theatrical: oxblood walls draped in fabric, silk lanterns, and a glowing open kitchen. Ask for the back if you want atmosphere, the front if you want to see your food.

Service was excellent on both nights, though I should say that neither night was especially busy and that Rollin recognized me. I’ll add this: I remember him from Le Bistrot Flaubert and from Hémicycle, where he was a force of hospitality long before he had any idea what I did for a living. Here, in his own dining room, that tendency is magnified. You feel less like a customer than like someone being welcomed into a (smoky delicious) home.

THE VERDICT

Antoine Rollin and Gaétano Carpinelli have built something genuinely likeable here — cooking that’s precise without being precious, a room that’s warm and a little theatrical, and service that makes you want to stay. Come with meat and fish lovers who like to share. Vegetarians will want to skip this one.

A few practical notes: Calcifer is a few steps from République, which makes it easy to reach from almost anywhere in the city. It’s open Wednesday through Sunday for both lunch and dinner, which makes it one of the better Sunday-night options in Paris — a night when much of the city goes dark. It is staying open all summer, with no August closure. And the air conditioning is powerful enough to counter a Paris heat wave.

Calcifer is GOOD and gets ★ ★. We’ve added it to our list of 50 favorites.

CALCIFER

41 Rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, 75003
Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch & dinner
Closed Monday & Tuesday
Reservations online or at +33 1 86 04 90 83

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COMING TO PARIS ?

We’d love to welcome you for a food tour! For more than a decade, we’ve been offering delicious walking tours of Paris’s best artisan food shops. Three hours, led in English by true experts, 8 guests max.

Learn more about our tours

Our food tours have been praised by The New York Times, Food & Wine magazine, the BBC, the Washington Post, Rick Steves, and the LA Times. We’ve been the #1 food tour on TripAdvisor for more than a decade.

Juveniles is GREAT ★★★

47 Rue de Richelieu, 75001
Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner
Closed Saturday & Sunday
Reservations online or at +33 1 42 97 46 49

Reminder: You can find more than 300 additional restaurants, all anonymously reviewed, rated and organized by location, in our restaurant index here:

Juveniles, a family-run bistro near the Louvre, is the restaurant I recommend more than any other in Paris. It’s been on our list of favorites for years, and I always worry that someday I’ll return to find the quality has slid. That’s not unusual in the Paris restaurant scene, so I always approach a return visit with some trepidation.

I needn’t have worried. A recent lunch at Juveniles was the best one yet, and a great illustration of why this is such a special place.

WHAT HAS CHANGED

Almost nothing, and that’s a good thing. The lunch menu is still 21€. It still buys a main course, a glass of wine, and a coffee. Romain Roudeau is still cooking in the tiny kitchen. Margaux Johnston is still running the room. The one thing that has changed since 2023: they now take online reservations.

THE FOOD

Here’s what we loved (all of it):

The terrine de campagne (9€) is what Roudeau is known for, and it holds up. Soft, coarse, spreadable, with a deep thrum of liver that tastes like France. Two fat slices of grilled bread, and a ramekin of house pickles — bright enough to cut it. Gone are the days when a whole terrine was left on the table for you to hack at, and that's not necessarily a bad thing. We still couldn't finish it. They packed the rest up for us to take home.

The summer carte is lighter and more ambitious than the word "bistro" prepares you for. Breton langoustines (24€) arrived roasted on the plancha with grilled melon, cucumber and herbs, over a bisque with real depth. The ricotta collapses into that bisque and enriches it. Incredibly good.

The gaspacho of watermelon (15€) was the dish for summer weather: cold and bright, with confit peppers and cubes of feta, breaded and fried light as air, and peas, cucumber and peppers scattered through for crunch. I could not get enough of it.

The gigot d'agneau (33€) is the best thing on the menu right now. The lamb comes from the Ferme de Clavisy, a family farm in Burgundy, and Roudeau sends it out leaning North African — semoule with fresh herbs, charred eggplant and onion, marinated tomatoes, a coulis of red peppers, a jus of Taggiasche olives.

That same red pepper coulis reappeared under the suprême de volaille that arrived as the daily menu: chicken cooked properly and still juicy, with fried polenta cubes, squash and green tomatoes. One well-made seasonal base, working across two plates. It is how a kitchen this small cooks this well at this price. And it is the 21€ lunch. It’s also a great example of how Roudeau builds texture, color and brightness into every plate. There’s a lot happening, but nothing feels superfluous or strained. It is remarkably mature cooking for a chef this young. It reminds me of Omar Koreitem's food at Mokonuts, and these two restaurants share a fan base.

Desserts are simple and good, as they have always been here. There is no pastry chef, and you will rarely see a crust. The riz au lait (11€) is another dish Roudeau is known for - vanilla-flecked, loosely set, and served with a side of salted caramel.

Roasted apricots with honey and rosemary (13€), a buttery sablé and whipped cream, were the prettier plate. Combining the two — rice pudding under roasted apricots — was the best decision we made all afternoon.

THE DRINKS

The wine list is not one of those bibles that arrives with a thud. It runs to a few pages. But it is deep in exactly the right places: a vertical of Belargus across the Anjou whites, Clape and Clusel-Roch in the Rhône, a bench of grower Champagne, and Burgundy that climbs far past what a bistro this size has any business carrying. There is plenty under 40€, and a generous by-the-glass and carafe selection. This cellar began with Margaux’s father, Tim Johnston, and it remains one of the great pleasures of eating here.

Juveniles is also a bottle shop. More than one person wandered in to buy wine while we ate, and you can carry home whatever catches your eye off the wall.

For non-drinkers there are now a few bottled options — a basil citronnade from Le Coq Toqué and an apple-elderflower sparkling.

THE VIBE

Juveniles is the casual neighborhood bistro we all dream about, in a location that has no business being either casual or affordable. Small, warm, a little noisy, hung with the paintings that Margaux and her sister made as children.

Margaux, who works the day shift, remains one of the best hosts in Paris. She remembers your last visit and knows what you want to drink. When the table beside us praised the rice pudding, she went and wrote out the recipe — not because anyone asked, but because they had been eating it here for decades and she thought they should have it.

THE VERDICT

Juveniles remains ★★★ GREAT and stays on our list of 50 favorite restaurants in Paris. Roudeau is cooking seasonally and skillfully in a kitchen the size of a hallway, and the wine is a joy at every price. It's a restaurant that's worth crossing town for, but sits in the very heart of Paris. Prices are gentle, and the 21€ lunch is a steal. Go if you want an excellent meal in the center of Paris without a production. Go if you love wine. Go because it's open on Monday. But do book ahead: this wonderful place is not a secret. And note that they’ll be closed for summer holiday from Aug 1-31.

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COMING TO PARIS ?

We’d love to welcome you for a food tour! For more than a decade, we’ve been offering delicious walking tours of Paris’s best artisan food shops. Three hours, led in English by true experts, 8 guests max.

Learn more about our tours

Our food tours have been praised by The New York Times, Food & Wine magazine, the BBC, the Washington Post, Rick Steves, and the LA Times. We’ve been the #1 food tour on TripAdvisor for more than a decade.

Ébène is GREAT ★★★

8 rue Falguière, 75015
Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Closed Sunday & Monday
Reservations online or at +33 1 42 19 98 01

Reminder: You can find more than 300 additional restaurants, all anonymously reviewed, rated and organized by location, in our restaurant index here:

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Jones is GOOD ★ ★

43 rue Godefroy Cavaignac, 75011
Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Closed Sunday & Monday
Reservations online or at +33 9 80 75 32 08

Reminder: You can find more than 300 additional restaurants, all anonymously reviewed, rated and organized by location, in our restaurant index here:

Read more

Finding a good restaurant in Paris has never been harder. Not because there are fewer good ones — there are more than ever — but because the signal has collapsed into noise. Everyone has a list. Influencers eat for free, algorithms surface whatever photographs well, and last year’s rankings sit online as if nothing has changed since.

This list is different. Every restaurant I visit — anonymously, paying full price, funded entirely by your subscriptions — is being tested for one thing: is it good enough to hang with the fifty names below? I’m not chasing the hottest openings, though some are here, or focusing on Michelin stars. I’m trying to find the tables that are worth your time and money in Paris, whether that means a 21€ lunch or a once-a-year splurge.

This list is alive. I publish a fresh edition three times a year, and no restaurant keeps its place on reputation alone — everything here eventually faces a revisit. Restaurants change. Chefs leave, kitchens coast, prices creep past what the cooking justifies. When that happens, they leave the list, no matter how beloved.

Below you’ll find our fifty favorite restaurants in Paris, ordered by my most recent visit. And because fifty is still a lot to choose from, the end of this post sorts them by what you actually need: open Sunday, open Monday, good for vegetarians, air conditioning, the right arrondissement.

Somewhere below is your next great meal in Paris.

WHAT’S NEW

NEW ADDITIONS

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Mokonuts is GREAT ★ ★ ★

5 Rue Saint-Bernard, 75011
Open Monday-Friday for lunch only
Closed Saturday & Sunday
Reservations online or at +33 9 80 81 82 85

Reminder: You can find more than 300 additional restaurants, all anonymously reviewed, rated and organized by location, in our restaurant index here:

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Bittikesu is GREAT ★ ★ ★

4 Rue de Brissac, 75004
Open Wednesday-Sunday for dinner
Open Friday-Sunday for lunch
Closed Monday & Tuesday
Reservations online or at +33 (0)7 44 79 42 96

Reminder: You can find more than 300 additional restaurants, all anonymously reviewed, rated and organized by location, in our restaurant index here:

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Both are misguided, for different reasons.

Here’s…

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We’ve rated Alt as GOOD with two stars * *

Reminder: You can find more than 300 additional restaurants, all anonymously reviewed, rated and organized by location, in our restaurant index here:

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Le Duc is GREAT ★ ★ ★

243 Boulevard Raspail, 75014
Open Monday–Saturday for lunch & dinner
Closed Sunday
Reservations at +33 1 43 20 96 30

Reminder: You can find more than 300 additional restaurants, all anonymously reviewed, rated and organized by location, in our restaurant index here:

Read more